Boost your skin’s metabolism

Each year more of your biological systems move into the slow lane.

Article Source: Women's Health

The skin’s metabolic rate measures how fast your cells talk to one another and take action: when functioning efficiently, skin cells self-exfoliate, UV damage gets repaired and collagen is produced, explains cosmetic chemist Jim Hammer. But with age and exposure to external aggressors like smoke and sunlight, that system starts to break down, resulting in slower cell communication – and dullness, dark spots and wrinkles. But the right habits, products and lifestyle choices can keep your skin’s metabolism stoked, so you look younger for longer.

1/ Keep Cells Talking

When the connection between your skin cells fails, it’s as if they’re saying, “Can you hear me now?” Smear on the right ingredients and you can start the conversation again.

In the morning: Glycans, sugar molecules found naturally in the body, play a key role in cellular communication, says Anthony Potin, a cosmetic engineer and assistant vice president of the skincare and suncare labs at L’Oréal Paris. If skin cells were doors, glycans would be the keys, unlocking the cells so they can receive messages to completetheir basic functions. L’Oréal Paris discovered that both the quality and quantity of glycans diminish with age, but applying them topically can improve cell turnover andproduction. The result? Fewer lines, more radiance. Try YSL Forever Youth Liberator Serum (R850 for 30ml); smooth it on before applying moisturiser.

At night: “Retinoids stimulate circulation and increase cell growth, which speeds up the skin’s regeneration process and ultimately its metabolism,” says dermatologist Dr David Bank. Skin will be smoother, firmer and more eventoned. Before bed, rub on a peasize amount. Try Neutrogena Ageless Intensives Anti-wrinkle Deep Wrinkle Serum (R150).

2/ Kick Your Butts

Know why smoking causes wrinkles and sallow, saggy skin? Lighting up damages your mitochondria, the workhorses of cells, and this has devastating effects on cellular chatter and metabolism. “Smoking inhibits normal communication and sends out signals to break down existing collagen, which causes wrinkles,” says dermatologist Dr Jeannette Graf. Even the occasional smoke reduces blood flow to the skin, which is enough to slow its metabolism. The good news: once you quit, cells start the repair process immediately. First up? “Blood circulation to skin improves and so does skin colour,” says Graf.

3/ Fight Free Radicals

These molecules from the sun and pollution are like kryptonite to your skin’s metabolism. “Free radicals damage DNA – and it’s our DNA that dictates how our cells function,” says Graf. She suggests a triple threat: sunscreen that contains SPF 30 and UVA absorbers (such as zinc oxide or avobenzone) to protect against free radicals; antioxidants (such as vitamin C or E) to neutralise the ones that get through; and DNArepairing enzymes (derived from algae or plankton) to help fix existing cell damage. Find all three ingredients in Avon Sun Mattifying Mineral Face Cream SPF 30 (R115).

4/ Put Up A Front

Your skin’s outer barrier functions as a bouncer: its job is to make sure the party inside (your skin’s metabolism) isn’t disrupted. To fortify yours, try shorter showers. “Prolonged exposure to water wears away the skin’s lipid barrier to the point that your skin isn’t able to defend itself,” says Graf. She also suggests lathering up with gentle pH-balanced facial and body cleansers. Your skin’s barrier is strongest when it has a somewhat acidic pH of 5.4, says Graf. Harsh soaps with a high, more alkaline pH will raise the skin’s pH, leaving it dry and more vulnerable. Try Neutrogena Extra Gentle Cleanser (R80).

5/ Work It Out

Quality time with a treadmill isn’t just good for your waistline: by increasing blood flow, you enhance oxygen and nutrient delivery to skin cells. Exercise involving large muscle groups – such as running or lunges – “maximises this effect,” says trainer Brad Schoenfeld, author of The MAX Muscle Plan. Working out also reduces levels of cortisol, aka the stress hormone. “Elevated cortisol keeps your cells functioning at a hypervigilant state,” says Bank. “It’s like forcing someone to stay awake for a long time. It’s draining and damaging.”

6/ Give It A Jolt

Just as a coffee run ramps up your productivity (especially around 3pm), stimulants can give cells a temporary burst of energy. Topical caffeine, ginkgo biloba and algae can trigger the skin’s metabolic process by increasing blood flow, meaning skin looks immediately brighter. Try caffeine-laced Dermalogica Oil Control Lotion (R495). Another energiser is a yeast extract. This helps to stimulate wound healing and collagen formation and increases oxygen utilisation in skin. Find it in Dermalogica Dynamic Skin Recovery SPF 30 (R870).

7/ Go On A Beauty Diet

The right foods can fuel your skin’s metabolism:

Whole-grain bread, enriched with B vitamins, will help keep the skin’s circulation strong.

“Vegetables high in betacarotene, such as carrots and sweet potatoes, are the food equivalents of retinol – they promote cell turnover,” says Lisa Young, author of The Portion Teller Plan.

Antioxidant-rich fruits and veggies act as a first line of defence and barrier for the skin. Potent antioxidant supplements and drinks are a great way to up your intake, says Graf – especially those made with acai, goji or noni.

8/ See A Professional (Skin) Trainer

Microdermabrasion has been proven to increase cytokines in the skin, proteins involved in cell interactions, says Bank. “Microdermabrasion damages your skin, which sends a signal to cells that something happened,” he explains. This message kicks your skin’s metabolism into high gear: more cells communicate, get produced and do their jobs. Start with weekly treatments (roughly R500 each) for at least four weeks, then maintenance visits as needed.